Paradise Hellscape

About brush fires and California

A view from Zuma Ridge Trail in early January 2025.

One: Drought

Over 250 days without rain. Somewhere after the 200th day, we walk. Breathe the citrus and jasmine blossoms, fog and sea brine. As we walk along Harvester Avenue and up Busch Drive, the morning cloud cover dissolves, leaving abundant sunshine bouncing off the surface of the sea, shimmering where squid boats gather and will cast the night in blotches of bright green lights: Sea stars. 

The ocean cools the offshore breeze on our faces, the shouts of kids playing, dogs barking, and the scent of horses wafting from the fields. Malibu Park; these are the days I like best–

Winter in Southern California. 

Until there’s a shift, a page turn of landscape, a contrast, seemingly of countries, of planets even. We wonder if we stumbled into a portal to Mars.

It’s the water. 

We left the lawns and xeriscapes, the palm trees, the roses, and the century plants with pointy hat plumes. The neighborhood of intentional water and the Zuma Ridge trailhead, where the real drought lives, no irrigation, sprinklers, drip hoses–instead, a place of life and death, of movement and quiet. The divide where the umber dusty trail heads into the dark mountains. Where someone could disappear. 

And fires could start.

Something here is off.

In late December, the mountains are usually cast in the green fuzz of new growth. Instead, we are surrounded by so many dead things. A landscape more like September than two days before the new year. Chaparral, dry and crisp. The breeze rattles the plants like snakes lifting their tails to threaten.

We are unsettled here. 

Two: Wind

Raymond Chandler wrote:

“There was a desert wind blowing that night. It was one of those hot dry Santa Anas that come down through the mountain passes and curl your hair and make your nerves jump and your skin itch. On nights like that every booze party ends in a fight. Meek little wives feel the edge of the carving knife and study their husbands’ necks. Anything can happen.”

Joan Didion wrote: 

“Los Angeles weather is the weather of catastrophe, of apocalypse, and, just as the reliably long and bitter winters of New England determine the way life is lived there, so the violence and the unpredictability of the Santa Ana affect the entire quality of life in Los Angeles, accentuate its impermanence, its unreliability. The winds shows us how close to the edge we are.”

Anything can happen,

Close to the edge. 

Santa Anas, a sense of anticipation, change, a departure from the norm: Tumbleweeds rolling. The stars, always brighter. The spray from the waves along the beach goes the opposite way. The normally smog-free coast casts a bathtub ring on the horizon, reminding us of the ick in the air we breathe. 

There were good Santa Ana days:

The time the Goodyear Blimp, like a bouncy, loyal pet, followed me on my walk to school

We’d run around during recess holding our jackets open over our heads as sails. 

Electric and alive– 

Anything can happen. And we were on the edge.

Santa Anas could bring disasters. When the winds scared me, they’d howl down our chimney, pick up, and knock lawn furniture around. Fueled brush fires from the valley to the coast in a matter of hours. 

The winds have power.

Three: Fire 

Smoke mass: Brown pillowing, gray ash, and a mean red center, raw wound, hell escape eating the chaparral in gulps. 

The mountains are fire. 

The flames eat a wide horizontal path down with a roar and whoosh of twirling heat and wind. Crackle and booms, of prayers and sirens–Smoke choked oxygen and red ember scattering and swirling over to the next house and the next. Eucalyptus trees explode, torch as roofs collapse, walls fall in, the metal edges of windows melt and twist into macabre bones: only the chimneys remain. Sentinels above the ruin. 

After the Woolsey Fire, returning to my childhood neighborhood is like Dorothy sidestepping Oz and arriving in the land of Borg Cubes from Star Trek. Vast, austere steel and concrete boxes, the post-fire architecture of Malibu Park, the phoenix houses from the ashes.

These are what people build now to stay safe. 

Or so they hope. 

Driving toward LA, the charcoal black laces the center of Malibu from the Franklin Fire, but as we travel south on PCH, I see all the familiarity of the other end of Malibu. The places that have been there always, the quintessential, the steady, the sure: Malibu Feed Bin, where we got our Christmas trees, the little shack restaurant, Reel Inn with the neon sign of a leaping fish. So many places huddled up along the coast, houses on the hills, in the canyons, the beach, Topanga, the Palisades . . .

Those are all gone now.

Our bodies are resilient to a point; our mental health can only take so much. The Earth has endured, but what are we doing now to hasten the heat? The previous year was the hottest on record. This past January was the hottest January on record. 

People look for easy fixes. Despite what’s been said, it’s not about raking the forest or controlled burns or logging or whatever.

It’s certainly not about turning on the water and flooding the Central Valley! 

Chaparral doesn’t work that way. 

But we keep coming back to this Paradise Hellscape, because when life’s good, it’s so good. The Mediterranean climate is a craving. Morning coffee bathed in sunlight, hummingbirds and sparrows, magenta geraniums and bougainvillea, the rhythmic curl of the waves reaching up the beach. 

The sunset’s glow–sky fire turning to night.

Until it isn’t anymore.

This is about drought and winds and the stuff that gets in the way . . . 

Welcome Home

As someone who tends to fear little things, I’ve learned to redirect my thoughts when they go from the standard concern to an irrational spiral toward an epic catastrophe. My sons call me Worst Case Scenario Mom when I go too far, yet I slay many of my childhood fears with my redirection approach.

One fear from my childhood became a real event this past November.

The possibility of destruction always loomed over us as we lived in the fire-prone landscape at the base of the Santa Monica Mountains. For forty-six years we rode out the dangers of droughts, dry chaparral, acres of flames, and near misses. This luck literally went up in smoke the afternoon of November 9, 2018, when the Woolsey Fire raged through Malibu, CA. 

I was in the sixth grade during the 1978 Agoura-Malibu firestorm when dry brush and the Santa Ana winds fueled the flames from Agoura to the Pacific Ocean. As the smoke massed over the mountains, we packed our cars and drove down to Zuma Beach to wait out the destruction. Huddled with fellow evacuees, including horses and other livestock from the ranches and farms that dotted the hillsides, we watched and waited. 

I wandered on the beach with my dog as the flames rolled down the mountains sending showers of sparks down the bluffs across Pacific Coast Highway. 

“Please, God, Please!” a woman prayed aloud as the fire swirled around her house in full view of the beach. 

All at once, the house burst into flames from within. The windows exploded, and the fire suffocated the building and the woman’s prayer. Some people comforted her, and I moved on down the beach feeling as raw and vulnerable as the landscape around me.

Late that night as we drove back up into our neighborhood in Malibu Park, past the smoldering remains of familiar houses, we held our breath as we turned onto our street.  By sheer luck, the flames had left a swath of land untouched that left most of our street, including our house, intact.

Three years later, we woke up on an early December morning with smoke already inside our house. The field behind our backyard was in flames. The Santa Ana winds had knocked a powerline down and sparked a small fire that burnt at least one house before it raced down the hill to our street. The firefighters, my family, and neighbors, were able to contain it before it spread and destroyed anything else.

For decades after our near misses, our house stayed out of the path of the major fires in Malibu, but we still worried. My parents took emergency preparedness courses. They cleared the brush around their home. They cut down trees. They made evacuation lists. The fire never came.

I eventually left Malibu for Washington state. Even here, with our abundant rainfall, I think of the “what if” options if a brush fire ignited. These dense forests can certainly burn. The past two summers we had many days when our skies filled with smoke from fires in British Columbia and Washington. I’ve considered what would happen if a fire started near my house—the different trajectories, the escape routes, and the outcomes.

On the morning of Nov. 9, 2018, a quick scan of the news prompted a pang of worry. A fire in Southern California had jumped the 101 Freeway. Once a fire jumps the 101, the fire will likely burn to the coast. This is Southern California fire logic. I read Malibu was under mandatory evacuation.  

I called my parents. They were packing and had a plan. Of course, they had a plan. 

Every break I had from work that day, I scanned social media, clicked on news links, and texted my brothers. My parents were out of cell range, but they had been seen by a family friend. They were on Zuma Beach. 

During my lunch, I watched live news footage. A helicopter flew over the fire, but I couldn’t tell where it was exactly. I studied the vertiginous sweep of canyons and red-tiled roofs, flames, and smoke. For a second, the screen flashed an overlay of street names, and it hit me. This is our neighborhood. For just a moment, I saw our street and the blobs of house-sized fires hazed in smoke. The camera peeled away to survey another burning neighborhood.

Malibu Park is a mix of old timers, like my parents, in their ranch houses and the fancier types, with astonishing Mediterranean-inspired estates. Celebrities and rumored international royal family members live in square footage enough to get lost in.  Mixed up is everything else imaginable—converted garages, sleek steel and glass rectangles, and even an ornate replica Victorian. Dog trainers live next door to physicians, plumbers, retired rock stars, teachers, and real estate agents.

My parents’ house was classic, a house with an iconic and timeless feel—the original midcentury pink bathtub, the double-sided brick fireplace that showcased the kitchen and living room, and the quilted design my mom made tacked carefully to the living room ceiling, between wooden rafters, to hide the popcorn texture above.

It was a laidback house with comfy seating, heaps of books, and a big table in the kitchen where we feasted on excellent meals. Out front, on the brick porch, we had a weathered rocker for sea gazing. Some things were not perfect, like my old bedroom which still had the ugly black and hot pink stripes I made on the closet door (it was the 80s after all). 

On that November afternoon, after the fire had made its way to the coast, my dad walked up from Zuma Beach treading carefully, hyper-aware of the dangers of hotspots and fallen power lines. He couldn’t go all the way to the property, but he went far enough to see what remained. Only the fireplace stood on what had once been our homesite. 

Later, I found out my parents had first settled in the parking lot for Malibu Park High School where they could keep an eye on their street. But as the fire came down the mountains, they told me the flames funneled into whirls and made deep undulating sounds like massive gears on some horrible machine. They feared for their lives and fled to the beach.  

Hearing the news of the growing numbers of fatalities in the recent California fires, my heart breaks. I am grateful that my parents and others are alive. This is what’s most important. Yet, there’s no denying a profound sense of loss. My greatest fear about my family home has always been that one day it would burn down. Now it has.

This was the home my brothers and I returned to often and brought our own children to share in the experience. It was my escape when the dark winters of Orcas Island got me down. It was our home—the one we moved into in 1972–not perfect but one we accepted and loved, with all the idiosyncrasies, like a member of the family.

My parents plan to rebuild.  After the rubble is removed and a new home is constructed, there will be new charms and comforts. After all, the essentials stay the same. The vibrant pink and orange glow of the winter sunsets will still happen. The hummingbirds will return to fight over the bottlebrush flowers. At night, we’ll hear the waves as they break and roll down Zuma Beach. It will be home. 

Despite everything, a new home will rise from the ashes.

We hang onto this hope as tight as we can.  

What was left after the fire